The Voodoo Girls have had to kick their energy supply into reserve. We pulled into Clarksdale snatching blues on the run because we were running out of time and there was still so much blues ground to cover. We hit Clarksdale and were forced to whiz through the Delta Blues Museum. What a library! Drove to The Riverside Hotel, which was the site where the great queen of blues, Bessie Smith died on September 26, l937. A quick stop at Rooster Blues Records,, which was closed. (I keep wondering why are most places closed. I've never seen such sleepy towns.) We checked out the old train depot, which is going to be the new site for the Delta Blues Museum. We kept wishing we had more time to explore Clarksdale and visit some juke joints but we had to rush because we did not want to be tardy for the Handy Awards.

Heading out of Clarksdale, we continued to get lost trying to locate the Stovall Plantation where Muddy Water's house and Juke Joint once stood. Perseverance paid off because we found the site where Muddy's house once stood and all that is left is a grassy mound and a small cement platform buried in the grass we are guessing was part of a step??. The House of Blues took Muddy's house away and were to leave a plaque in it's place but we didn't see a plaque. Maybe the cement platform is going to be the plaque???? We sat ourselves down on the grass and used our imagination and pretended we were back in time juking in Muddy's juke joint partying and drinking whiskey with spirits long gone. The scenery was once again so unbelievably wide open ----- flat, green, surrounded by farmland and very quiet. While we were sitting on the grass, the wind picked up and we could hear the leaves in the trees rustling............I couldn't help but feel ghosts from the past were with us.

Great balls of fire!!! The Voodoo Girls are without a doubt on the "road to ruin". We arrived in Memphis at 6:45 and the W.C. Handy Award Ceremonies began at 7:30. We rushed to put on our party gowns, and made a mad dash for the Orpheum Theater. We were only 30 minutes late for the W. C. Handy Awards and we could hardly contain our excitement as the usher led us all the way down the aisle to our seats in the second row.

There were so many highlights at the Handy Award Ceremony and the Postjam session, which was held at the Hard Rock Cafe on Beale Street. It was wonderful running into many familiar faces and friends. We thought the biggest highlight of all was when John Mooney and Bonnie Raitt jammed at the Hard Rock Cafe. Sista Monica showed up and Bernard Allison played. A bunch too numerous to recall. You would be proud of "your whiskey women." We danced until 4:30a.m. Here are a few of my favorite shots.

So tired now.

Love xxxxxxxxxxxxxx 00000000000 Margie

Date: May 3, l998
Subject: Memphis

Yesterday was Day One of the Beale Street Festival. Chubby Carrier put on a fastastic show as well as the Jelly Roll Kings. We are running into URBC cruisers everywhere.

After the festival, Sue and I went to the Center for Southern Culture. Honeyboy Edwards (who was with Robert Johnson on the night he was poisoned) had performed. Honeyboy drew an impressive audience. Little Milton was there as well as a few people from the recording industry. Honeyboy's performance was followed up by the Daddy Mack Band. The Daddy Mack Band had a few guest singers who were selected out of the audience. One of the singers got to be me! One could describe the scene as comical. I got to represent Santa Cruz, California and sing a few lines of Wang Dang Doodle. So I guess I can now say even I have performed on Beale Street.

We are in a rush right now as we have to hurry and make it to Day Two of the Beale Street Festival. Tomorrow we are splitting from Memphis and heading back into Mississippi to Robinsonville (the boyhood town of Robert Johnson). The Blues Aid benefit is going on with a plethora of wonderful performers. We MUST SEE Bobby Rush.

By the way, the Voodoo Girls found the best place to eat breakfast in Memphis --- Not only was the food good and the price right but we also had another "brush with fame." Seated at a table next to us at The Cupboard on Union Street was none other than Anson Funderburgh and Sammy Myers. We can't believe our good fortune.

Note to Melinda: Chubby and Maria thank you for the photos. Maria will write to you soon.

Note to Paul: Laughed so hard when I read your message. Looks like we are going to get to see Billy C. Wirtz afterall. He's performing at the Blues Aid.

Must go ------- lots to do.

Bluesfully yours,

Memphis Margie

Date: Monday, May 04, l998 11:36am
Subject: Salvation Received

Hi Everybody,

I believe with all my heart and soul the Reverend Billy C. Wirtz was sent to Robinsonville, Mississippi (the boyhood town of Robert Johnson) to save our souls from damnation. Yesterday we crossed paths with the holy Reverend. The invitation to hear his private sermon was strong but the pull to the crossroads was stronger. At 3:00a.m. we bid a farewell to Billy and hit the backroads in darkness to search for the crossroads because we had a date with a dark cloaked figure. The blues mobile led us to a divine spot.........and we could just feel the vibes and knew Robert Johnson had walked on the same road where we stood. At 4:30 a.m., we held our ritual and under a starry sky with moonbeams shining down upon us to provide the light we needed, we lit our candles which had been lovingly rubbed with "Make A Wish" voodoo oil purchased at Tater Red's Voodoo & Mojo Healing Shop. In turn, we recited our chants while dancing in the semi darkness. We made our wishes and surrendered our souls. We wanted to please the blues ancestors and make them proud of us.

Before the crossroads ritual we went to the Blues Aid
benefit and ran into a ton of people we knew. The most
memorable performances were by Otis Clay, James Cotton, Bobby Rush, Bernard Allison, Buddy Miles and the Reverend Billy C. Wirtz.

On the way to the Blues Aid benefit, we HAD TO visit Memphis Minnie's gravesite in Walls, Mississippi. Since it was Sunday the little church was in session. Hallelujiah!!!! Praise the Lord!!!! The shouts and screams could be heard loud and clear. I couldn't help but be drawn to the little church. As I walked closer and closer I could feel the pulsation. I sat on the steps and was mesmorized by the preacher's sermon and the congregation's response. It was an emotionally moving experience, which brought tears to my eyes.

Our journey is coming to an end. In a couple of hours I will be on my way to the Mempis Airport to catch the flight home and in my pocket, so dear to me, is my mojo bag which is full of memories and good experiences. Sue is off to Panama City to visit her parents.

This is the last day of our "Historical Blues Pilgrimage to the Genesis of the Blues" and from the balcony of our hotel room overlooking the Mississippi River I can feel the wind blowing and see the surface waters of the Mississippi River rushing by. I have to say our initiation has been successful and complete. We are bonafide certified Grade A Blues Babes!!!

See you soon........

with love.............

Margie